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Com; rr Siri Kodra 42/1; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri) Excellent trailblazing adventure tour agency offering trekking, ski touring, sea and white-water kayaking, paragliding and more. Outdoor Albania organises stays in village houses, and also runs the groovy OA Klub restaurant-bar in Tirana. DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Beware the potholes! Tirana’s streets are badly lit during the night so arm yourself with a pocket torch to light your way T I R A N A • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 55 around, but watch out for the potholes during the day too.

The buzzing central street of Blloku, rr Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit, is the top spot for cafés, bars and restaurants. Pasticeri Francaise (%251 336; rr Dëshmorët e 4 Shkurtit 1; breakfast 150 lek; h8am-10pm) One of the few breakfast spots in Tirana, this Frenchowned place has red walls and high ceilings, and small lamps light individual tables giving it an ooh-la-la feeling! 30pm) A smart atmosphere, fantastic service and tasty Albanian dishes for carnivores and vegetarians alike. The former East German embassy has evolved into one of Tirana’s best food choices.

There’s a bright, modern restaurant here with Italian meals for around 1300 lek. The hotel also has a swimming pool. Hotel Tozo (%23 819; rr Sadik Zotaj; s/d €20/40; a) Just off Zotaj about halfway between the bus station and the port behind a small park, this friendly and comfortable little hotel has luxurious beds in large rooms, good bathrooms, air-conditioning and TVs. Hotel Vlora International (%24 408; rr Sadik Zotaj; s & d €50) By the port at the end of rr Sadik Zotaj, this is the biggest hotel in town with modern, comfortable rooms and a good restaurant downstairs.